I’d been cautiously eyeing up ultras for a while and after the Glentress marathon , I was left trying to decide between the Kintyre Way or Glen Lyon ultra. Glen Lyon swayed it by being much closer and also got a thumbs up being organised by the BaM team, who I’ve only heard good things about.
With a 7:30 registration and having driven past the end of the Glen Lyon road several times, I knew that getting there would take a while, even before venturing up the longest enclosed glen in Scotland. So heading down Friday and overnight camping seemed like a good idea. Driving up the glen from Bridge of Balgie, huge mountains tower high either side of the single track road. As a closed road rally stage with pace notes, this would be great. However several cars, a bin lorry and countless lambs sunbathing on the road made for slow going, so time to enjoy the views until finally reaching the big dam wall and hydro plant that heads Glen Lyon.
Alan and Lyndsay were already camped out and after a bit of a catch up about recent exploits I got my tent pitched and then went for a walk up onto the dam wall to see a little bit of tomorrows route. As the afternoon turned to evening, several more marshals, organiser crew and runners turned up, including David (Eds brother in law) and a few peeps I’d met at previous races. So plenty of chatting about anything and everything so long as its running related! As the sun vanished behind the dam wall, the temperature dropped sharply, so it was time for some food and not long afterwards an early but chilly night.
Dawn broke cool dry and overcast, with a bit of wind blowing up the glen. Pretty much ideal for a few hours running, so I opted for a t-shirt, gloves and shades, but packed a long sleeve top and jacket just incase the weather turned nasty. More cars had been arriving all morning and by the time of the race briefing, a crowd of 78 runners had appeared. This was the first time running the event for the BaM team and they had decided on a lap of the loch then cross over the dam wall back to the start point with a CP and drop bags. Before going over the hill for a loop of Glen Lochay and then returning back over the hill to finish. The bonus being going over the dam should give us an extra mile for free… Apparently some people complain when a route is short!
We were away at 9:30 sharp, dropping down hill away from the dam. After blowing up at Balmoral, I knew it would be a very long day if I got it wrong again, so set off fairly easy and working forwards untill I found a comfortable pace. At the bottom of the short road section, the route turns back and starts to climb high over the dam on a landrover track. By the time I had reached the bottom of the climb, the leader had pulled out a good lead and that was probably the last time I saw him as a person instead of a dot in the distance. The other really fast runners also vanished soon after and the field quickly thinned out with some run/walking and others just doing a walk.
By the end of the climb and subsequent descent the track starts to follow roughly the same level above the loch and you can make out the line of it away into the distance and along the far side of the loch. The race brief did mention the risk of drowning, as there’s several stream and river crossings. Some of which can be carefully crossed on the stepping-stones and some of them your going to get wet. At the first big stream crossing I made it half way over on the rocks, before encountering a couple of submerged rocks. Not being a mountain goat, I decided it best to get properly wet feet than trying to stay dry and risking a fall so early in the day.
By now the few runners immediately in front and behind would be fairly constant company, yoyoing back and forwards for the rest of the way to the head of the loch and a thigh deep river crossing before a short climb to the check point/ water station. After the CP the track continues to rise for a bit then levels out again as it heads back down the loch, which meant going into the headwind. Way ahead I could make out Jenni and David and slowly but surely I was gaining on them. It took 10Km and maybe I was going to regret it later, but I finally caught up with them at the dam wall and followed them into the CP. Split time of 2h 18min 53sec and 17th place.
Wullie had been following me on the return leg, but he quickly filled his water bottles and got out the CP whilst I was still filling my pack and Jenni was taking more photos. Having run the Fling last week, Wullie slowed as soon as the road started to steepen. Part way up the 3km long hill, Jenni, David, Wullie and myself were back as a group, walking bits and briefly running bits when the gradient eased. At the top I’d pulled out a bit of a lead and pressed on down the other side towards the next checkpoint and the start of the second loop.
The high road along the top of the glen is another landrover track which has some fair size undulations as well as gradually climbing. Early on, you pass a hydro pipe which crosses the glen and makes a good aiming point for the way back. You can also see the low road in the bottom of the valley, but its a long time and several gates to get through before you can see the steadings and finally the zigzag track that you’ll need to go down. The zigzag descent was rough and loose, which isn’t what your needing at this point but I passed Wullie again whilst he was taking it steady. From the high road, the lower road looked level. However it turns out to have a few lumps in it, which took the last out of my legs and the usual suspects passed me by once more. However I was still chuffed with 4:04 for the marathon distance.
Now the not so fun bit, climbing back up to the CP being the first goal. It didnt seem to take too long, whilst walking up and chatting with Wullie. At the CP, I had a quick top up with water and got going upwards again. The last few runners were heading down hill, about so start their lap, yet meanwhile Frances Britain (Forres Harriers) was running up and passed us a few hundred metres before the top of the hill. We got running again once the road levelled out and up ahead a race was well and truly on for first place lady. Fran was closing the gap on Jenni and David, but I think they spotted her. Now on the downhill, they vanished into the distance, only reappearing on the final stretch towards the finish. 30 miles had been and gone but the bridge at the bottom of the road was insight and the finish a short climb beyond. The final wee hill wasn’t too bad and the finish comes into view again. The crowd of marshals and other runners was great, clapping and cheering as I crossed the line in 5hrs 9min 46sec and 13th place.
Next in was a proper ultra dafty, who passed Wullie on the way down and gave me a good run for my money. Next week its a Double Catteran ultra for him, so good luck there! It was great to see Wullie cross the line next as he’d been a great support throughout the race but he wont be doing back to back ultras again… well maybe not.
After a quick dip in the river and change into something warm, it was back to the finish line for some soup and cheer in other runners before the next bit of exercise. Trying to bump start somebodys car up a hill because the wine cooler drained the battery!
Should you do an ultra. Absolutely, its way more fun than a 5k
Report by: Neil Purdie